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Monday, 28.02.2011
Sanduny-banya; a bath for body and soul
Moscow. In Negligence Street, located in the Kuznetsky Most district in the old center of Moscow you can find a little treasure, the Sandunov baths. You won't be able to bathe anywhere else in such splendor.
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In 1808, the actor Sila Nikolaevich Sandunov created this extraordinary banya. During the 19th century the baths, commonly known as 'Sanduny', changed hands several times and were even a lost bid at a card game.
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Since 1896, the baths are open to the public. They were regarded as an architectural and engineering masterpiece, the water was derived from a 700 foot deep well. Up to 400 pool-attendants worked there, washing the banya visitors and lash them with birch or oak twigs in the steam room.
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Sweating like a king
Even today Sanduny are the most famous baths in Moscow, maybe even in all of Russia. Politicians, entrepreneurs, celebrities and top athletes are sweating here together with commoners. That's not uncommon as in the banya complete Democracy rules. Wooden carved signs confirm this “V Banji gerneralov net” there are no Generals in the banya meaning there is no government, everybody is equal.
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Small differences
Women and men sweat apart. Men have the option of three banyas in a different price range, women can only chose between two. Couples who want to sweat together can rent small saunas but it would reduce the enjoyment significantly as the large steam rooms make Sanduny so special.
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The bathing experience in the middle or upper price ranges for men offer luxurious and architecturally unique ambiance. Mosaics at the ceiling delight the eye and large swimming pools with different water temperatures refresh the body.
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Amenities for women are less luxurious as in the 19th century women played no major role in public life. Sanduny however offer considerable better facilities compared to other public baths.
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The necessary banya utensils
To visit a banya necessary utensils are a towel, a special felt hat, a large sheet, slippers and a series of care creams as well as twigs from birch or oak trees. All this can be rented or purchased in Sanduny but banya enthusiasts will bring their own.
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Women's sauna sessions, only interrupted by cold water showers or swimming in the pool, are followed by individual body scrubs made of for example ground coffee mixed with full fat cream or grated corn with honey.
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These can also be applied by the banschik-parilschik, the pool-attendants after an intensive cleaning session. For a hefty tip they will also take on the procedure of lashing with birch twigs. This procedure increases the blood circulation and releases tension, leading to marvelous physical experience.
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Between sauna sessions visitors enjoy drinking tea, kvas or cold beer that are readily available in the Sanduny restaurant.
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After the three hour session completely refreshed visitors leave this historical place of rest and relaxation.
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